Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Ottawa, then flight to Moncton and final leg to Halifax

Dear Friends,

Cycling my way across Ontario seemed incredibly long until one day past Pettawawa, I read a sign which read, "Eastern Ontario". Unbelievable! Soon I would arrive in Ottawa. I stayed in Arnprior, east of Ottawa the night before and rode a pleasant route off of the Trans Canada through beautiful Ottawa Valley farmland for approximately 70 km's. I hooked up my little iPod and rode in with tunes from The Beatles Love Album and The Best of Earth, Wind and Fire on a gorgeous Saturday morning and afternoon. I count this as one of my best days of the trip. Rocks and trees were replaced with greens, yellows and reds of well organized farmland and buildings. When I passed Terry Fox Way and some multi-story office buildings on the perimeter of town, I knew I'd finally arrived. I booked Webb's Motel and it became a perfect base to see a few things and get things done for my next stage. My ticket for Amsterdam from Halifax is for the 22nd of July so I had to modify my plan because it was obvious that I didn't have enough days to cover total kilometers to my destination. Plan A: Cycle as far as I could from Ottawa (perhaps Montreal) and get transportation to Halifax or, Plan B: Fly to Moncton from Ottawa and complete my ride in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. I opted for Plan B and here I am in Halifax. This is the city from which my mother arrived from Norway as a young girl in the 1920's and it was the departure point for my father and the Calgary Highlanders during the Second World War. I wanted to cycle here to experience it as intimately as I had arriving at so many other destinations in Canada. I will complete the Ottawa to Moncton leg next Spring and include Newfoundland in the plan which will fulfill a truly coast to coast experience which will even be better.

Ottawa is a remarkably beautiful city and I became familiar with a few areas including the parliament buildings beside the Ottawa River. I spent most of time on Carling St. where I stayed and Richmond Road where I visited bike shops and Mountain Equipment Co-op. I received great treatment from Scott and Ken (the owner) at CyclePower where I joined the guys to watch The Tour de France for a couple of stages in the mornings. The staff at Webb's Motel on Carling street were also extremely helpful and supportive once they heard about the Clean Water for Ethiopia project. Even Canadian Tire staff across the street from the motel were supportive. Everything was great about my stay and I was sorry to leave Ottawa so soon but time overuled and I boarded Porter Airlines for Moncton where I got in around midnight. Unpacking my bike box the next morning proved interesting as a few parts were loose or missing. I found everything and tightened up loose components and I was on my way (albeit a late start) to Amherst, followed by Truro.

On Monday evening, I arrived in Halifax and finally got my first glimpse of the inner harbour and was struck with it's similarity to Vancouver's inner harbour except for the absence of the precipitous North Shore. It was so good to see ocean again and I rode pretty much to the south end of town to Dalhousie University where I'm currently staying. Yesterday, I found a bike box for crating my bike for the flight on the 22nd and shopped at MEC, Cyclesmith and pharmacies to replenish or replace items for the European leg. Tomorrow morning I box my bike again and get ready for my departure for Amsterdam. I've not reflected fully on the cross-Cananda trip a lot due to the business of preparations for the next stage of the ride/project however I seem to have flashbacks at unexpected moments like shopping at the drugstore or while grabbing a coffee at Tim Horton's. Reflective moments like the wail of a train horn in the Cypress Hills of Saskatchewan or stopping traffic on the Trans Canada near Regina to help two young moose get across the highway without injury (same goes for drivers). I'll not forget that beautiful bear alongside the road as I sped by him/her on the downhill run from Kootenay Pass towards Creston, B.C. The challenge of two to three solid days of headwinds off of Lake Superior from the southerly run from Wawa, Ontario to Sault Ste. Marie, combined with seemingly endless hills and a long food/water replenishment gap proved "character-building" yet somehow, every challenge was handled on it's own terms and I usually found myself at the end of the day with a roof over my head (tent or room) and amenities to get me started for the next day - quite amazing.

One of the best aspects of this trip are the people I met along the way. We've acknowledged many of you who read the blogs from time to time and you have played a role in the success of this project, be it small or large. I've made new friends across the country, some briefly and others I hope to continue. I gained tremendous respect for some of the X-Can riders I met along the way...what remarkably strong individuals they are - like modern day Voyageurs, I think. I achieved moderate distances in a day but met (and heard about) some riders who were covering tremendous distances per day. I culled unnecessary equipment a couple of times via Canada Post during the trip and still felt I was carrying too heavy a load but everything was used. Still need to work on this.

There were others who were regular supporters from home, like June Evans who followed Spot Tracker everyday and her enthusiasm was inspiring. The same applies to Brian and Jan Strehler who followed my progress daily and followed up with phone calls every 2-3 days. Once when changing an inner tube outside of Swift Current, my cell phone rang and it was Brian Strehler calling to see if I was okay because I hadn't moved for quite awhile in an isolated area on the map. That is support!
Calls from my good buddy, Gary Lauwers were also most encouraging and I appreciated his insights and friendship. It was also good being in touch with my Mom who recently turned 90. Her mind is sharp but she suffers from a deteriorating back condition. We talk more from the road than when I was at home so in an odd way, this trip has contributed to our relationship. It's also been good keeping in touch with my younger sister, Jane who's support is also appreciated.

One person who's contributed over and above is Lynda Kerr, my girlfriend, who has overseen lots of logistical support issues, been an active listener and is looking after my great little cat, Latte. Cats are pretty independent but require lots of care and attention like kids. Latte loves Lynda because of the TLC she's provided and I am most appreciative. Latte will be boarded at the Cyber Cat Lodge while Lynda joins me in Europe for a month during the first part of my journey through the Netherlands and Germany.

There's lot's more to say but it's best to be brief. I intend to continue this blog in Europe until my return but am concluding the Canadian portion of the project. Thank you for your support...I learned a great deal and have been blessed by good weather, safety, health, friendship and prayers from my friends at St. James.

Bye for now. I look forward to being in touch with you during the next phase of the journey.

Doug

Friday, July 16, 2010

Ottawa to Moncton

Fold up the map and then a hop from Ottawa to Moncton.  Doug's scheduled flight to Amsterdam on July 22nd has not given him the flexibility of the extra week or so needed to ride from Ottawa to Moncton.  In just three or four more days Doug will ride into Halifax to complete the cross Canada portion of his trip.

Looking forward to more stories.  And pictures, too. 
You will hear from him soon.
Lynda

Saturday, July 10, 2010

From Sault Ste. Marie - Eastward Towards Ottawa

Dear Friends,

The difficult terrain is behind me and I'm enjoying a rest day in Sturgeon Falls, Ontario over 400 km. west of Ottawa. I never fully recharged my batteries from the Wawa to Sault Ste. Marie leg so today was necessary. The terrain has been generally flat with a few rolling hills to keep things interesting. Sturgeon Falls and neighboring Verner are largely French Canadian communities, originally settled by French farmers. I read a historical plaque which indicated that an influential Catholic priest encouraged French farmers living in Michigan to move here and farm. Although I'm sure that folks came from other parts, the farms around here are some of the most beautiful I've seen in my ride across Canada so far. They are absolutely picturesque.

On my travels east from "The Soo", I camped in Thessalon (had blueberry panckes at the beautiful Carolyn Bay Inn, owned by a remarkable couple, Andrew and Sue).
I carried onwards through many other small towns and on the third day I stopped in Lively, Ontario, a little larger town about 10 km before Sudbury. Many km's before, I met Terry and Sylvia Carscadden at a campsite on Lake Superior near Schreiber. We had a short, yet interesting visit where we exchanged e-mails and in a few days, I received an invitation to stay at their gorgeous home on Long Lake near Lively as I would be passing by Sudbury on Highway 17. I had another great visit with the Carscaddens and an overnight stay at the lake, including a sauna followed by repeated jumps in the lake. Ahhh, the life! This is one of the best things about travelling in such a fashion, you get unique opportunities to meet some interesting and often very kind people, a few I would now refer to as "friends" for life.

In my eastward ride, I moved from the top end of Lake Superior to the North Channel of Lake Huron. This place is loaded with history of the First Nations people and the Colonials over the past few hundred years. I had an interesting conversation with a councilman from an Ojibway band and I sensed his pride in the heritage of his nation in this area. Samuel de Champlain travelled through this area, although the only evidence of his presence that I've seen is a motel that is named after him and it's not even recommended. I hope to locate some evidence in the form of a plaque or something like that soon.

Tomorrow I continue east towards Ottawa, travelling through places like North Bay,
Mattawa, Pettawawa, Pembroke, Renfrew, Arnprior as I approach the "Big O" in 4 or 5 days from now. I'm looking forward to gleaning more historical evidence of our rich Canadian past as I move further east if I get to take my eyes off of the road...the shoulders of Highway 17 (Trans Canada) have been poor, non-existent and often hazardous. I hope they'll improve as I approach our nation's capital.

Take care,

Doug

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Thunder Bay to Sault Ste. Marie - a Beautiful yet Challenging Leg

Dear Friends,

It's been eight days since I left Thunder Bay and have enjoyed a stay at the home of John Myles and Krista Ryall in Sault Ste. Marie. I met John and Krista while riding in Lake Superior Provincial Park and they graciously offered to host me for a night. After over two days of strong southerly headwinds, off of Lake Superior, combined with seemingly endless hills, I was ready for a rest.  This stretch of Highway 17 has been by far the most challenging part of my ride to date with long stretches of wilderness and no settlements in between. One has to plan food and water very carefully and I almost ran out by the time I got to Pancake Bay Provincial Park, about 156 kilometres from Wawa, Ontario. There was good drinking water at this campsite and food down the road and I've never felt so relieved to replenish these resources. "Clean water for anyone" had renewed significance for me as I chugged down my replenished bottle of water on that hot, windy day on the road. I got a bit of a reprieve in the wind for the next 40 km or so until I stopped at the Blueberry Motel, past the Goulais River about 27 km from Sault Ste. Marie. What a relief! I think this was the hardest ride I can remember doing...character building for sure!
The vistas of Lake Superior are unforgettable with the effects of sun and cloud on the changing blues in the lake, sometimes Mediterranean-like azure to a brooding steel grey more akin to the west coast of B.C. on a stormy day. I must admit, I had mixed feelings of isolation and exposure, blended with gratitude for being able to experience this profound natural beauty. I experienced a thunder storm just as I arrived at Agawa Bay where I camped one night and made it to cover just before the skies unleashed a deluge of hail and rain. Blessed again, the skies cleared up within half an hour and I was busy setting up my camp on the north shore of Lake Superior in the sunshine.

So much time was spent solo riding through through landscapes of rocks, trees, marshes and lakes so there is nothing to report that is notable except for the vastness of the wilds of Ontario. I did meet some interesting people on this leg which did enrich this part of the journey. At White River, I met Peter and Mary from Salt Spring Island, B.C. who were riding a tandem bicycle and Anne, a cyclist from Vancouver. We had dinner together on Canada Day and swapped tales of the road which was most intriguing. There were others as well...Houston and Jurgen near Nipigon who were riding west to Vancouver. Houston was returning to Vancouver after seven months in South America and Jurgen was planning on being in Vacouver for his birthday near the end of July. There was also a brother/sister team who were incredibly fit and were covering tremendous distances, heading east. The scuttle-butt on the road was that they rode 300 km on the prairies one day without much of a tailwind and they confirmed this fact when I met them at one point. On the road south of White River I met a Dutch gentleman who was walking across Canada. Bram had walked from Halifax to Ottawa last year and now he is walking from Ottawa to Thunder Bay. Quite a feat!

I've only found the energy to update this blog this morning but need to get going on the next leg to Sudbury before it gets too late, so I'll sign off for now but hope to fill in a few more blanks on this last leg when I recall experiences or information I'd like to share.

Until then,
Bye for now,

Doug