Truck Stop Breakfast

It's a beautiful morning in Chaplin Sask. Woke up in the Summer Moon this morning at 6:00 a.m. No, this is not a motel, it's my little tent. The birds have been singing since first light at 4;00 and the trains stated at 6. Double rail lines yielded double traffic which I felt to my bones since my box spring was basically the ground. Watched a Sask sunset last evening with a classic grain elevator in the background. A fine photographic moment...camera back at campsite - darn. Oh well, it's etched in "my" mind.

Chaplin is located on Chaplin Lake about 80 km west of Moose Jaw and is known for it's salt mining (Chaplin is a salt lake) and a significant North American bird migration route. Brine shrimp is popular with many of the bird species.

Shelly, the affable waitress, has topped up my coffee for the fourth time and local working folk are chatting about agriculture and road construction for the most part. Weather is always the central topic because it's intregral to life in the most immediate sense. For me, it's the wind. Today is the last day of westerly winds because they're supposed to change to a NE on Tuesday. Headwinds are useful for character building and wind generators. Today they will be my friend if the weather report is accurate.

I learned a lesson two days ago riding towards Swift Current. I rode over some train tracks at Gull Lake and felt my rim hit with a sound that makes a cyclist cringe. Pulling over at the Shell Station, I noticed a soft rear tire. I just bought it in Medicine Hat a few days ago, how could this happen? I hadn't had a flat for 1500 km's! I pumped it up to near max pressure and it seemed pretty good after a few minutes. Decisions, decisions...do I run to Swift Current (56 km away) and hope it will hold or change it now? The wind was blowing cold and I didn't feel like disrupting my state of relative comfort so I gambled and off I rode. Lazy dude.

Seven km's from SC, I rode over some stones and I heard an insipid explosion, my tire bit the dust. I dragged my wounded steed off to a grassy slope below Hwy. 1 with the CP rail line on the other side. I was bounded by ample traffic on both sides which made life interesting. The wind still blew cold and because it was the rear tire, I had to remove all of my panniers, etc. and flip the bike over. I grabbed another sweater to compliment my layers and went to work. I hastily wrestled on a new tube with chilled fingers, pumped it up and "blam!", it blowed up real good. Where's the second spare? Took my time and got it right, loaded up the Kona and off I went. It took me over an hour until I could resume my journey. What's the lesson here? Something about "a stitch in nine saves time", whatever that means - a sewing maxim, I believe. A good lesson for life and successful cycling journeys.

Gotta get back to camp, pack up and head to Moose Jaw. Regina tomorrow.

Best Regards,

Doug

Chaplin, Saskatchewan

It's an amazing thing when Doug's in his tent camped in a small site behind the service station in Chaplin (1400 km away) and he can turn on his computer, attach his internet stick, and talk to me (face screen to face screen) on Skype.  The winds and weather were in his favour today but there is no room at the motel due to construction crew occupancy.  A flat tire yesterday, 7 km short of Swift Current, gave Doug quite a challenge as it was rainy, cold and... well, I'll let Doug tell you all about it in a few days.   Doug should arrive in Regina on Tuesday for a few day's rest and some writing.  I look forward to reading his stories.

Lynda
www.dougsride.net

Near the Saskatchewan Border - Irving Alberta

Dear Friends,

Mother nature is doing her thing and I am using this opportunity as a rest day. Winds were high yesterday and even brisker today ranging from 25-45 kph coming from the east. This evening, we even experienced some thunder and pretty intense precipitation. On Wednesday, I decided to get a head start and made a run to Irvine, a small town of about 300 folk. As I rode into this "breeze", I almost burst out laughing at my insignificance against the amazing force of wind. Fortunately, the mechanical advantage of my alpine gearing allowed me to spin away at low speeds without getting exhausted...it just took a long time. I'm staying at a B&B owned by a remarkable couple by the name of Mike and Karen Hamerton who also run the town's general store and restaurant. Some of the folk who turned up for lunch today were farmers and their families. One fellow sitting next to me commented that he was pretty happy to get one field plowed before it started raining.

Prior to this, I had two very good runs from Fort MacLeod to Taber and Taber to Medicine Hat, covering 215 km. Medicine Hat is a bustling small city with lots of green space and friendly people. I took my bike into the Cyclepath Bike Shop and got priority service as they referred to me as a "roadie". They replaced my almost bald rear tire and brake cable in quick time. Given their busy work load, I'd like to express a special thanks to Greg, Trent and Justin for excellent service.

I continue to be charmed by wild and domestic life from my roadside perspective, in particular the bird life and abundance of foals and calves with their mothers. It's also interesting to observe the ground squirrel activity long the way. Unfortunately I have to dodge a fair amount of road kill which is another story.

According to the Weather Network, winds will be westerly so I'm making a break for Saskatchewan in the morning and hope to make a village called Tompkins. We'll see if the wind is my friend tomorrow. The Hamertons invited me for a great supper this evening so the batteries should be adequately charged for a good ride tomorrow.

There's a book I never read called The Wisdom of Insecurity which sounded intriguing to me. Hopefully I'll find it one day and read it but the title causes me to reflect on the value of leaving one's comfort zone and launching out on an adventure which may provide discomfort in all sorts of ways like tough weather, loneliness, boredom (sometimes), and not always knowing where you're going to stay after a long days ride which has it's own demands. Technology is an incredible support in staying in touch with friends and loved ones which I do almost everyday via e-mail, cell phone and Skype. Don't get me wrong, I love this adventure for many reasons but it certainly helps to have the technology to maintain important relationships which keep me connected and motivated. I think that insecurity heightens my awareness to the physical world more profoundly which in turn seems to impact my relationships with people. Somehow, relationships have become much more important, perhaps because it has something to do with my survival, I'm not sure. It also impacts my faith, and over time, I believe I will gain more insight into this thought.

Freight trains are a frequent sight here on the prairies and an incredibly long one passing by infront of the general store as I write. I find the wail of it's horn and the repetitive rumble of steel wheels on tracks mesmerizing.

In closing, I have nothing of particular of interest to share with you except that the physical geography of this country seems to impact my mood. As a coastal boy, I'm used to the mountains, forests and the ocean. The wide open spaces, big sky and wind have impacted me differently somehow and there's a lot more to come so I hope to share my humble insights with you in future musings.

Yours truly,

Doug

Rest Day in Fort MacLeod Alberta - May 23, 2010

Dear Friends,

It's good to touch base with you again, here in Fort MacLeod. The mountains are beautiful but I'm not missing the climbing. B.C. could stand for Big Climbs. I was almost blown out of B.C. by the winds in the Crowsnest Pass 2 days ago. What a ride! I'd guess 70 km gusts. I flew (almost) into Blairmore, Alberta, a gorgeous little town in the Pass. The locals told me I'd get the prevailing winds to aid my ride to Ft. MacLeod but noticed that the flags were waving east to west the next morning. Crosswinds and headwinds were the order of the day all the way making it a 90 km workout. Welcome to the prairies! Oh well, it's a rest day today...sleeping in, laundry (my Century II  Motel operators, the Kims, did my laundry for me - kind but brave souls!), write, stretch, review my map, walk around town, etc. Went to the local Anglican church this morning which was built in the late 1800's for the RCMP. The Foothills were gorgeous yesterday with rain clouds all around the mountains but it was clear and sunny along Hwy. 3. The sun and clouds made for beautiful colours on the landscape so I look forward to reviewing photos sometime this evening. It's sunny and warm here today but the weather report predicts rain tomorrow so I may have to get out the rain gear. I've only had 2 days of rain so far so I'm pretty fortunate. Gotta get into rain mindset and embrace it when it comes.
I think the most memorable part of my last leg since Trail has been riding the Kootenay Pass, the highest serviceable highway in Canada. In truth, I wasn't sure I could do it but I made it to the base at Burnt Flats and spun for 4 hours to the summit at 1774 meters. Rain and some fog patches kept me cool but the truck traffic was a bit unnerving. The summit was still a winter wonderland although it rained fairly hard up there. The 40 km run downhill was kind of crazy and colllld! What rain shadow?!
One descending highlight was when I passed a healthy-looking black bear about 10 km down on the side of the road. He/she didn't hear me coming and when I passed him/her at about 25 kmh, I called out, "Hey there big guy!", I guess I surprised him/her and he/she took off in the other direction. What a beautiful animal! After 124 km, I arrived in Creston pretty elated. I have to admit, I was pretty dog-tired the next day and missed my goal of Cranbrook and camped in Moyie Lake Provincial Park that evening. 28 bucks to park your tent on a piece of gravel with access to an outhouse. There were more ammenities available but holy cow, I think the Ministry of Parks is going to make a little money this year.

I've budgeted to stay at a hotel every 3rd night but so far, I've only camped once. After some challenging days in the hills, a warm, dry room is preferable so I'll have to be a little more disciplined in the prairie provinces. I really like finding inexpensive, (in some cases, quirky) motels between the big towns. There's a whole blog article to be written on "motels"! There's also another blog topic on "cognitive itches"" or as Randy Bauchman calls "ear worms" on his CBC show which are tunes that get stuck in your brain and play over and over. Two anoying pop songs for me have been Sacre Charlemagne by France Gall, (heard on Lee Rosevier's CBC radio show Earlier), a sixties pop star and a more current and even more annoying tune called Calle Ocho or something like that. They've been driving me mildly insane but have involuntarily replaced them with some sixties oldies which have come out of nowhere. Could someone please tell me how to get rid of "Take a Letter Maria"? The psychology of long distance riding has much potential for study, perhaps more in the field of abnormal psychology.

Before I go, I have to tell you about my 22 story. Yesterday, I turned 58 (May 22)and along the Crowsnest Hwy. I photographed a sign which said Junction 22 for fun. To my mild surprise I noticed a sign across the highway that read, 22 km to Crowsnest. Wow, I thought that was an interesting coincidence but when I arrived at my motel in Fort Mcleod, I was assigned unit #22. As they say on Sesame St., "[Yesterday] was brought to me by the number 22". Interesting. I had a virtual birthday celebration last evening over Skype. Lynda sang Happy Birthday and my cat Latte literally meowed between verses. 

It was the funniest thing I've heard for a long time. Happy 58th birthday to one of my best friends, Pat Farley(in Calgary) today. Thank you to all who have communicated with me along this journey so far. Sometimes I'm afraid that I don't have the courage or physical strength to complete my goal but one has to begin with an end in mind. So think big and do what you can is probably the most realistic mantra and enjoy the people you meet along the way. Your words of encouragement and interest

make a significant difference to me. I've made it to Fort Macleod in one piece and for this I'm grateful.     
All the best,
Doug
www.dougsride.net
 

891 km completed and heading toward the Alberta border

Having had a late start due to the desire to enjoy the simplicity, and flowers, at the Creston City Centre Motel, (and an unexpected 1 hour time change) Doug left Creston heading North.  Spot was tracking on the website and so it quickly became apparent to me that he was heading the wrong way!  Fortunately, he answered his cell phone and hadn't put on too many unnecessary kms.  Doug arrived at Moyie Lake Provincial Park last night just a few minutes before the sun set and decided to set up his tent and experience his first non-motel night of the trip.  No cell phone signal, not much light to set up his computer and test his internet stick (and blog), but a pay phone and HOT SHOWERS! 
Doug plans on rising with the sun and riding to Cranbrook for a delicious breakfast (after a dinner of freeze dried beef stew and grapes) and will then head toward Fernie , 116 km away.
If time and energy permits we may get some pictures and blogging from Doug tonight, otherwise he'll be taking a rest day in Lethbridge on Saturday, May 22nd (pssst...his birthday).
Lynda

May 17, 2010
Rest day today. Glenwood Motel in Trail B.C.
Recharging batteries for Kootenay Pass tomorrow, May 18. I intended to take a break every 5th day but after a long climb up Bonanza Pass yesterday, I needed to let my legs recover, hence a day early. If I get past Kootenay Pass, anything else will be relatively easy in comparison. I like Trail. A pal of mine, Wayne Smutylo was a disk jockey here about 35 years ago and I skiied at Red Mountain with Wayne and his wife Margaret. Some pleasant memories.
The past 3 days have been challenging to say the least, starting with Anarchist Mountain, a 3 hour climb with some steep sections. When I started the climb, an old-timer passed me walking down the hill and warned me that it was one hell of a hill. I yelled back, "I look forward to it!" partly as a reaction to him and partly to generate motivation. I hate comments like that but I love their motivational power..."F.U." and away I go. Sometimes I don't like to know about a hill, like Bonanza Pass which took 5 hours to get up. When you don't know what you're dealing with and you don't know how long you've been doing it, it doesn't seem so hard. You just crank stretch after stretch, turn after turn and after a while you notice snow on the side of the road and the horizon begins to level out and the reward of a summit shows up once more. Yesterday's descent was over 20 km.'s to Castlegar...what a kick!
It hasn't all been hill work....I've seen amazing wildlife, deer below the road where no cars can see, all sorts of birdlife especially at this nesting time. One interesting sight was a hawk flying overhead carrying a snake. I try to avoid symbolism if at all possible.
The landscape on the plateau beyond Osoyoos was spectacular with wide open spaces and remarkable cloud formations. I came across 2 cyclists from Ontario having lunch on the side of the road. Kevin and Sue took the train to Vancouver and are now cycling back home. It was also memorable to pass through Rock Creek on the way to Grand Forks. In the summer of 1971, I was trying to get work fighting forest fires and hitch-hiked around parts of the province. I remember getting dropped off at Rock Creek late one night and had no recourse but to look for a place to sleep which turned out to be the front porch of the Rock Creek General Store. I still recall the sound of the 18 wheelers going by as I attemptedto sleep. As I rode by, I looked for the general store but couldn't find it. It was many years ago and the building was pretty old so it's either replaced or gone.
I stopped at Greenway for the night and got a late start the next morning for some reason...mostly that I'm not naturally an early riser. An old mentor and retired Assistant School Superintendent was just few doors down from me and walked by as I was loading my panniers. 'Good morning", he said. I knew the voice immediately and replied, "Geoff!" It was a grat chance meeting because I haven't seen him for 20 years. He was an exceptional educational leader an I learned much from him when I was a young school principal. I wouldn't have seen him if I hadn't slept in.
Okay,,,back to hill climbing. Some hills you know too much about and logic reigns therefore you have more of an accurate idea of much how much you are likely to suffer. I did some research on Kootenay Pass and know too much so I'd better take advantage of my rest day and get prepare to sleep.
Talk to you soon,
Doug

Lots of Climbing

On Sunday, May 16, Doug did the ride from Christina Lake to Castlegar.  A tough, rough 30 km hill climb up to Blueberry Paulson Pass commonly known as Bonanza Pass.  5 hrs climbing, riding 30 km to 1535 m.  Hail and snowboarders at the summit.   A well deserved Dairy Queen Skorr Blizzard in Castlegar.
Doug will most likely ride to Trail today and take a rest day in preparation of what might be the toughest ride in Canada. (well, so far)  I figure it's better to NOT know what's ahead so wouldn't give him too much information on elevation gain and grade.  Or, he may just want to get it over with and head out toward Creston from Cranbrook.   Watch the Where's Doug Tracker on the website www.dougsride.net.
If it's a rest day - then Doug will write on this blog.  Stay tuned!

Lynda

Similkameen River Near Keromeos

Graffiti on a barrier halfway up Anarchist Mountain.

An 8:00 A.M. departure for Anarchist Hill, east of Osoyoos and eventually Greenwood, B.C.the Hassens fueled me up with a terrific breakfast which helped with the hill work. Many thanks to Matt and Evelyn for making my rest day rejuvenating..  Picture - Matt Hassen and Molson in Osoyoos. Picture by Evelyn Hassen

About 10 km from Richter Pass hill into Osoyoos.

Riding Beside the Similkameen River.

Amazing clouds along the way.

MAY 13, 2010

Dear Friends,

I'm on a rest day and it's been great recharging my batteries in Osoyoos at Mat
and Evelyn Hassen's place. I worked with Mat at the school board for a few
years and it's been great to reconnect. Mat took me on a tour of the Osoyoos
Desert Center and the Osoyoos Museum. Even had an interview with a reporter
from the Osoyoos Times on the project. Food and rest were on top of the agenda
today and should pay off on Anarchist Mountain tomorrow, a 7 km hill climb out
of town.


Speaking of hill climbs, my 4 days of travel have been highlighted by healthy
elevation gains especially from Hope to Princeton, B.C. I must have driven this
route 50 times and never had the intimate sense of gravity pull that I
experienced in day 2 and 3 of the trip. Talk about a leg burn!

Yesterday's journey from Princeton to
Osoyoos was a dream ride with sunny skies, a tailwind and gorgeous scenery
along the Similkameen River. The great thing about riding this time of year is
all of the bird activity on the roadside. In particular, I've been inspired
with the song of Blackbirds nesting in marshy areas along the way. The day
ended with some long hills before the Richter Pass descent. As I approach a
corner after a long hill climb, I like to imagine that it's going to level out
or even better, become a decline and when it doesn't, only the wildlife can
hear my shout of "Oh no!" or worse but what can you do? Even philosophy is of
little help, so it's best to try to empty your mind of thought, and grind until
it's flat again.

Apologies for the banal simplicity of this discourse but this is my expereince
at the moment and if I continue to make progress and get stronger, my view of
the world may evolve into something different. In a painting, sometimes it's a
little dash of a primary color that jumps out at you that you remember. About
9:30 yesterday morning, I approached a monk dressed in red robes standing at
the roadside beside the Similkameen River with no apparent settlement in sight.
I slowed down, we exchanged greetings for the morning and I cycled off, feeling
gifted with a brief, gentle and authentic roadside encounter with someone on
another journey.

I wish to acknowledge and thank Lynda Kerr for all of her logistical and
emotional support for helping me get off the ground (or on it) and keepin' er
rollin'. Thanks also to many friends who have e-mailed, phoned, guest-booked or
skyped messages of encouragement.

Off to Grand Forks or thereabouts tomorrow.

Best wishes,
Doug