Fınıshed at Last! :)

Dear Frıends,

I'm currently enjoyıng a lıttle R&R ın Istanbul before I return to Vancouver tomorrow vıa Brıtısh Aırways. Thıs cıty ıs so rıch ın hıstory, relıgıon, archıtecture, musıc and many other aspects whıch ınterconnect ın a multı-colored cultural tapestry. As I walked through the bazaars, palaces, museums, mosques and streets full of a cosmology of peoples, I felt rather alıen but a few days of Istanbul ımmersıon has reduced the ınterpersonal gap as I've had a chance to ınteract wıth some of the people who lıve here.

Four days ago, I dıpped my tıre ın the Black Sea at Constanta, Romanıa, havıng completed my four and one half month journey on my Kona Sutra tourıng bıcycle. I enjoy Konas play on words and Sutra, whıch I belıeve means phılosophy ın Hındı, was a suıtable choıce for my bıke as ıt was an excellent vehıcle for my raıson d,etre on thıs journey. It put up wıth an remarkable amount of abuse and provıded me wıth a satısfyıng rıde day after day. I had no accıdents durıng my nearly 8000 km trıp untıl the last 13 kms from Constanta. As I dıd a shoulder check on an approachıng truck behınd me, I dropped ınto the draınage grate from hell, about 15 ınches deep and the same for ıts wıdth and breadth. Perhaps my tıre pressure was just rıght, but I bounced out of the hole and came to a complete stop as my front fender jammed up agaınst the down tube because my forks bent wıth the force. Once I was able to free the fender, there was just enough clearance for the front wheel to spın smoothly enough to get me ınto town. I was grateful for such a recovery and was able to enjoy a successful conclusıon to my trıp.

Lookıng back, ıt dıdnt seem lıke four and a half months but standıng on the beach on the Black Sea was concrete enough for a realızatıon of how far away from home ıt was. From an emotıonal standpoınt, I often felt close to home wıth cell phone, ınternet and SPOT tracker contact. I met so many fıne people who helped me (and Lynda on the Amsterdam to Vıenna sectıon) along the way that brought realıty to the sayıng, Home ıs where the heart ıs. The same goes for supporters from home. Calls from good frıends, sometımes ın the oddest of locations, also aıded my spirit. There were down days but these were often overıdden by encouraging human ınteractıons. There were lonely tımes too but they dıdnt seem to last long. I must have recycled a thousand memories of joys, regrets, songs and relatıonshıps a number of tımes and ın ever changıng order as these memories ebbed and flowed. I think Take a Letter, Marıa was the all tıme wınner as most annoyıng ear worm tune but there were so many more!

There ıs much to share wıth you that I won't ınclude ın thıs brıef catch-up note but wıll backtrack to southern Hungary which ıs where I left off ın my last blog. I followed the Danube as ıt contınued south through Croatıa and swung to the east ın Serbıa and Romanıa. I look forward to tellıng you more when I get home ın front of my own computer ın good ol' Canada.

Yours truly,

Doug

To the Black Sea....Giurgiu to Constanta

see website for an update  http://www.dougsride.net/ 

Approaching Croatia

Dear Friends,

Wow, the first day back to school for kids, parents, teachers, support staff and administrators back home. I'm thinking about you guys today!

I am currently in Baja (not Mexico), Hungary, one and a half day's ride from the Croatian border, taking a rest day.

The Hungarian people I've met have been wonderfully helpful, from people offering directional assistance (unsolicited at times) to others contributing to the project materially. One example of such humanitarian support was from Maria Turi from Dunafoldvar. I booked into her pension and when she read about the clean water project she contributed free lodging and lent me her computer. When I arrived in town, I was welcomed by some of her family and I must admit, it was a wonderful feeling. As I get further away from home it's easy to feel more alienated, like a stranger in a strange land, so these acts of human kindness are much appreciated.

Another example of such generosity occurred today. At the pension I'm staying at, a young woman working here solicited the interpretation help of an English speaking friend across the street to help answer the plethora of questions I was posing to her in my dictionary German. Samuel Nganigi came over and was incredibly helpful, making himself available at any time of the day, even being willing to take a call during his work as dental technician. I needed to see a physician about something minor and he accompanied me personally to his Dr's office for a check up. He intepereted for me and the Dr. was most helpful and didn't charge me a florint for her services. We had a great chat and she wished me well on my journey and project. A special thanks to Dr. Knapig Rosalia!

I haven't covered the kilometers in the last 4 days I had hoped but lots of the terrain has been on gravel pathways (usually on top of dykes along the Danube) and some across farmland on a single track. Yesterday was amazing, riding 21 kms on an asphalt bike path through the Danube-Drava National Park.

I have many recollections of Budapest as I ride south with the Danube. Its history is as rich as its beauty. I recall a visit to the national Modern Art Gallery to see an exhibit with the theme of post socialist Hungary. I think I experienced more existential angst than watching the movie, Eraserhead. Some dismal black and white representations accompanied by a grating electronic soundscape challenged my sanity but there was one video loop of seniors doing old army exercises together which helped to reclaim a mild sense of well being, enough to get out of the museum. Maybe this is one purpose of art...to provoke a reaction. Clearly I'm not giving it a fair review and communicating its purpose but I suppose it just hit me the wrong way.

I've been intrigued by village statues I've seen along my ride including an occasional depiction of the German Wermacht from WWI and one in particular in Dunafoldvar from Soviet Union days, including the hammer and sickle at the top of an a star-sided spire with Russian script embossed at its base. So much history, so much change, like the endless flow of the Danube.

The pension staff here have been more than patient with my domination of the internet station here so I should end my ramblings and close for the moment.

Happy first day of school to my old working colleagues and greetings to my fellow retired colleagues. I wish you all another great school year.

Best regards,
Doug

Burnaby to Budapest and Beyond

Dear Friends,

Tomorrow I leave for the last and longest segment of my European journey to the Black Sea at Constanta, Romania. I'm currently in Budapest, Hungary and will ride south approximately 2öö kms following the Danube, then eastward across Croatia, Serbia and Romania. I replaced my fairly worn tires with new Vittoria Randonneurs, some really tough Italian touring tires and had some new brake pads installed so the Sutra should be in good shape for the journey.

My last leg from Vienna to Budapest was very interesting. It took a couple of hours to work my way through Vienna and then through lots of fields and forests to Hainsburg, Austria. At the private zimmer of Herr und Frau Putz, I met David and Felicia, bike tourists from England who were returning from Budapest. It was great to swap stories and get valuable road tips. David has cycled around the world and knows Steven Lord, the author of a handbook for long distance cyclists, a book which inspired me in part to undertake this journey. What a small world.

The next day, as I approached the border of Slovakia, I referred to my cycling guide published in 2öö6 which said to expect grim faced border guards at the passport check in. There were no guards, nor passport office but rather grass growing between cracks in the parking lot and rusting border gates. It was a little weird but I carried on through the border, passing only a flashy Slovakian coffee bar playing loud techno pop music which seemed to herald my entry into eastern Europe in a way I didn't expect. I skirted Bratislava with it's heavy traffic and headed south into Hungary where I encountered more border facilities in a similar state of entropy. After an hour or so, heading south towards the city of Gyor, a thunder storm broke out accompanied by torrential rain. I had to find a shelter quickly as I turned my bike around to the village of Donasziget where I recalled seeing a road house advertising lodging. Fortunately they had room for me and I used my stay to dry out my gear while the storm raged for many more hours. The next morning brought a steely grey sky but thankfully minimal precipitation. I rode a gravel path on top of a dyke for almost 25 km and found my way to the highway to Gyor, a small city en route to Babolna, my destination for the day. As I pondered my map at an intersection, a very friendly woman by the name of Andee asked if she could help. I suppose I looked confused although I'm usually not, it just takes me awhile to figure things out. Anyhow, she said, "Follow me", and away we went, weaving our way through a number of lanes and streets to the city limits. What a joy. We had a good chat...she used to live in Atlanta and commented that she wished she was back there. Early that evening, I arrived in Babolna, a small town famous for its Arabian horses.

I rode the towns main street on which the Imperial Hotel (which I had booked earlier)was situated but couldn't seem to find it. Fortunately I ran into an Austrian couple whom I had met the daz before and they pointed me to a small sign attached to an imposing wrought iron gate across the street. As I pushed my bike through the opening, I was amazed by a long walkway bordered by huge leafy trees, shrubbery and somber bronze busts highlighted by footlights to the hotel. My eyes were drawn towards a significant pale yellow Edwardian type design with a large arched wooden door at the centre. It was well into dusk and details weren't sharp but I was able to see a buzzer which I rang and got an immediate response from a speaker in Hungarian. The door buzzed and I took that as a cue to enter a dimly lit foyer including marble floors and a high ceiling. A woman behind a window gave me some instructions and a key...I guess I was in. A fellow seemed to appear out of nowhere and led me and my bike through another arched door into a large circular courtyard past a long row of stables. To my great surprise this was where they kept the famous steeds...the Imperial was part of the complex of Arabian stables, training area and horse breeding museum. I was lead into the first floor to my semi palatial room adorned by a 13 foot ceiling, marble flooring in the sumptuous bathroom and India rugs in the living area. Breakfast was not included but it cost 11öö florints, a little over 4 euros. It was served across the street (2 blocks once you traveled across the property) at another museum in a dining room fit for King Stephen, I think a King of Hungary past. The table was covered with a linen including silverware and china. Breakfast was served and the unnerving part of it all was that I was the only one in the elegant yet unlit dining room. Although I was treated like a king or a prominent bureaucrat, I couldn't help but imagine that I was part of an Outer Limits episode and that I would be trapped in this scene forever...arghhhh. I had a chat with the waiter, filled my water bottles and got the heck on the road. Still not sure what to make of the experience but it was unique and good value.

My other destinations included Ezstragon where I resided below one of the most beautiful Basilicas in Hungary and Obuda on the outskirts of Budapest. During my ride to Obuda, I took a ferry to an island called Szentendrei Sziget, about 15 km long. I encountered a shepherd there near the roadside and he asked me for a drink. I had a spare Fanta in my pannier so I was happy to oblige. The sheep were an old breed I think, with horns and a shaggier coat than the ones we know at home. His name was Zolten and was dressed in garb one might imagine being worn centuries ago except for the gumboots. As we attempted to communicate, one sheep got a little too close to the road and he excused himself to rein in the wayward animal...a very alert shepherd. I was quite taken by this encounter and he gave me permission to take his photograph which I will post when I get back.

Budapest is a whole other blog item but because I have to get out of Dodge soon, Ill save it for another day. I may take a train out to the city limits today to avoid the busy Budapest traffic.

Thanks to Zsalt Halsa and Mark Huber for being helpful during my journey. I will acknowledge others when I complete this phase.

All the best for now,

Doug

Loving and Leaving Vienna for Eastern Europe

Dear Friends,

I'm leaving Langenzendorf, Austria (an eastern suburb of Vienna) tomorrow for Bratislava and will travel back and forth a little between Hungary and Slovakia negotiating a route between the two countries on either side of the Danube. I believe it's called the Dunav in Hungary and Duna in Slövakia but I'll double check. It's been the Donau from Donaueschingen, Germany where we encountered it as a little stream. It even disappeared underground for a few kilometers. Now it's a wide, wide river used for hydroelectric power, shipping (each dam includes canals and locks for shipping). I've read the travel advisories and cycling guides so I think I'm as ready as I'll ever be for eastern Europe. It was great cycling with Lynda and sharing all of the amazing sites en route. A cycle tour lacks the ambling ability one has as a foot tourist because there are timelines and distances to achieve in a day. You also have to worry about securing your bike, etc. We did make some day trips by train to go to Ludwig's Castle in Bavaria, Climb the Ulmer Munster Cathedral spire in Ulm Germany and go on a guided tour in Dachau. I'm still significantly impacted by that last experience and plan to share my impressions in the future.

Cycling Germany was a remarkable experience, following the river at times and then disappearing into corn and wheat fields over winding country roads barely used by car traffic. We had to dodge more tractors than anything but for the mostpart, we had the roads and pathways to ourselves. Often, we would veer into cool wooded trails and end up back beside the river to be reaquainted with our old friend, the Danube. Before Austria, hills began to grow around us and each river bend seem to produce another castle perched high above the river. Some of these fortresses go back to the days of the Ottoman invasion hundreds of years ago. The Romans used the river for their expansions as well and it's fun to imagine a legion or two, plying these waters during their imperialist exploits. One can spend hundreds of hours exploring old Roman sites along the Donau. One of the best treats of cycling this part of Europe are the forays into towns and villages, rattling over cobblestone lanes seeking out that perfect cappuccino at a sidewalk cafe. Stretching out your legs and listening to the ringing of local church bells on a sunny afternoon, while scooping out that last bit of foam your cup was one of the most pleasurable parts of my day. The hard part was getting started on your bike again but after a few minutes of peddling, progress was fairly easy to make.

The other highlight of this portion of the trip were the aquaintences made with others. I hope to write more fully about some of the people we met but I was often impressed with their kindness and generosity towards us. Chris and Elizabeth who rescued us from being stranded late at night without a connecting train to our hotel and the birthday surprise they organized for Lynda on her '39th'. The crew at the pub just over the border into Austria at Feldkirchen who helped us find accommodation at night at a farmhouse when it seemed that there was no room at the Inn anywhere. I have to make a public apology to Martim Peterseil for misunderstanding his greeting of 'grus gott' (it did come across as rather grumpy) for something else and being less than friendly with him as a result. After the dust settled he arranged for a van to drive us and our bikes to the private zimmer at the farmhouse I mentioned. Later, I discovered that 'Grus gott' is Austrian for 'Hello'! This story demands more detail but I share this as an example of the kindnesses we experienced along the way.

I want to say hello to the following folks we met along the way...

Pauline, Chris and Elizabeth, the inn keeper's son in Zimmern, Kees, Anton, Bertrand, Willy, Mrs. Stapfolen, Mr. Koppel, another Willy, Patrick, Mr. Knols, Leda, and Herr und Frau Roderich. I'll ask Lynda to remind me of others I may have unwittingly missed.

As I leave for eastern Europe, I must admit some mild anxiety because of the conveniences I may miss that were experienced in the west but each stage, be they provinces of Canada or countries in Europe, has it's own unique experiences to offer. I am a person of Faith and am grateful for the protection I've received thus far so my prayers will include safety for the next portion and that I will be enriched as much as I have been for the last stages I've been able to complete.

Regarding my final destination of Istanbul, I am probably going to revise my route fairly significantly but will still aim to achieve the Black Sea but instead at Constanta, Romania which is near the mouth of the Danube River. The route following the Danube is established as part of the Danube Bike Trail although far rougher than it's western Europe sections. There exists infrastructure of some signage, cycling maps and guides and listings on accomodation along the way. If I was to plan a route from Budapest to Istanbul, the unknowns are significantly greater as well as opportunities to get lost. Once I achieve Constanta, I plan to return to Bucharest by train and make a connection to Istanbul. If time allows, I may have an opportunity to cycle in Turkey before I return to Vancouver.

I guess I'll have to change my trip-project name from 'Burnaby to Istanbul' to 'Burnaby to the Black Sea'. Perhaps this has a better ring to it but none-the- less, I hope to arrive in Turkey with my bike. By the way, the guys from Jubilee Cycle in Burnaby will be happy to know that the Kona is still running well with only one tune-up required and that was in Winnipeg last June.

Thanks to you all who are following this adventure and I hope we can raise a reasonable amount of funds towards the 'Clean Water for Ethiopia Project'. Lynda has returned to Vancouver with my netbook because wi-fi is too inaccessible so I will rely on internet cafes to keep in touch with you but SPOT will continue to transmit unless I lose it off of the back of my bike over the next bumpy 1700 km's.

There is much more to share with you about this trip but I hope to give it more attention in a fuller document upon completion of the trip. Obviously this is not a conventional travelogue per se but rather a set of reflections on a little bicycle journey I'm taking and I hope to share more impressions with you again soon. Lynda will load some long overdue photos so you won't have to rely on my limited descriptions alone.

Best wishes,

Doug Ibbott

Over the water and through the woods....

Dear Friends,

Apologies for not writing since I landed in Europe over two weeks ago. We are members of Friends of the Bike (Vriends op de Fiets) in Holland which provides accomodation opportunities in the Homes of Netherlanders who are avid cyclists or like-minded adventurers. In many cases, we haven't had access to internet services so other cycling functions seem to take over. The same applies to accomodation in German guest houses...great hospitality but internet is not necessarily a priority. It's been great to connect today via the Hotel Garni in Munderkingen (owned by an amazing couple, Christopher Baer and Elisbeth Meixel).

After the Trans Canada, Holland is a total holiday, with flat and wide bike paths, most paved on dykes where vistas are remarkable. It's a bicycle nation! In Germany, cycling the Rhein from Koblenz to Bingen was a head turner with castles perched on hilltops overlooking steep vineyards flowing towards the valley bottom. If that wasn't enough, barge traffic on the Rhein was fascinating and stops at cafes for cappucinos in villages along the way, made this leg more of a relaxing vacation than a bike tour.

We're now cycling the Danube Trail. On day one out of Donaueschingen (beginning of the Danube), we broke out of an urban scene into open vista of gentle hills and fields with a winding trail one might see in a post card. You might recall a scene from the movie, the Great Escape, where Steve McQueen is being chased on a motorcycle in some gorgeous hills and fields in Germany. It's kind of that sort of beauty although Bavaria is much further to the south.

I hope to give you more detail in the next few days but this will be dependent upon easily accessible internet access.

Happy Birthday to Lynda Kerr!!

Warmest regards to you all,

Doug

Ottawa, then flight to Moncton and final leg to Halifax

Dear Friends,

Cycling my way across Ontario seemed incredibly long until one day past Pettawawa, I read a sign which read, "Eastern Ontario". Unbelievable! Soon I would arrive in Ottawa. I stayed in Arnprior, east of Ottawa the night before and rode a pleasant route off of the Trans Canada through beautiful Ottawa Valley farmland for approximately 70 km's. I hooked up my little iPod and rode in with tunes from The Beatles Love Album and The Best of Earth, Wind and Fire on a gorgeous Saturday morning and afternoon. I count this as one of my best days of the trip. Rocks and trees were replaced with greens, yellows and reds of well organized farmland and buildings. When I passed Terry Fox Way and some multi-story office buildings on the perimeter of town, I knew I'd finally arrived. I booked Webb's Motel and it became a perfect base to see a few things and get things done for my next stage. My ticket for Amsterdam from Halifax is for the 22nd of July so I had to modify my plan because it was obvious that I didn't have enough days to cover total kilometers to my destination. Plan A: Cycle as far as I could from Ottawa (perhaps Montreal) and get transportation to Halifax or, Plan B: Fly to Moncton from Ottawa and complete my ride in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. I opted for Plan B and here I am in Halifax. This is the city from which my mother arrived from Norway as a young girl in the 1920's and it was the departure point for my father and the Calgary Highlanders during the Second World War. I wanted to cycle here to experience it as intimately as I had arriving at so many other destinations in Canada. I will complete the Ottawa to Moncton leg next Spring and include Newfoundland in the plan which will fulfill a truly coast to coast experience which will even be better.

Ottawa is a remarkably beautiful city and I became familiar with a few areas including the parliament buildings beside the Ottawa River. I spent most of time on Carling St. where I stayed and Richmond Road where I visited bike shops and Mountain Equipment Co-op. I received great treatment from Scott and Ken (the owner) at CyclePower where I joined the guys to watch The Tour de France for a couple of stages in the mornings. The staff at Webb's Motel on Carling street were also extremely helpful and supportive once they heard about the Clean Water for Ethiopia project. Even Canadian Tire staff across the street from the motel were supportive. Everything was great about my stay and I was sorry to leave Ottawa so soon but time overuled and I boarded Porter Airlines for Moncton where I got in around midnight. Unpacking my bike box the next morning proved interesting as a few parts were loose or missing. I found everything and tightened up loose components and I was on my way (albeit a late start) to Amherst, followed by Truro.

On Monday evening, I arrived in Halifax and finally got my first glimpse of the inner harbour and was struck with it's similarity to Vancouver's inner harbour except for the absence of the precipitous North Shore. It was so good to see ocean again and I rode pretty much to the south end of town to Dalhousie University where I'm currently staying. Yesterday, I found a bike box for crating my bike for the flight on the 22nd and shopped at MEC, Cyclesmith and pharmacies to replenish or replace items for the European leg. Tomorrow morning I box my bike again and get ready for my departure for Amsterdam. I've not reflected fully on the cross-Cananda trip a lot due to the business of preparations for the next stage of the ride/project however I seem to have flashbacks at unexpected moments like shopping at the drugstore or while grabbing a coffee at Tim Horton's. Reflective moments like the wail of a train horn in the Cypress Hills of Saskatchewan or stopping traffic on the Trans Canada near Regina to help two young moose get across the highway without injury (same goes for drivers). I'll not forget that beautiful bear alongside the road as I sped by him/her on the downhill run from Kootenay Pass towards Creston, B.C. The challenge of two to three solid days of headwinds off of Lake Superior from the southerly run from Wawa, Ontario to Sault Ste. Marie, combined with seemingly endless hills and a long food/water replenishment gap proved "character-building" yet somehow, every challenge was handled on it's own terms and I usually found myself at the end of the day with a roof over my head (tent or room) and amenities to get me started for the next day - quite amazing.

One of the best aspects of this trip are the people I met along the way. We've acknowledged many of you who read the blogs from time to time and you have played a role in the success of this project, be it small or large. I've made new friends across the country, some briefly and others I hope to continue. I gained tremendous respect for some of the X-Can riders I met along the way...what remarkably strong individuals they are - like modern day Voyageurs, I think. I achieved moderate distances in a day but met (and heard about) some riders who were covering tremendous distances per day. I culled unnecessary equipment a couple of times via Canada Post during the trip and still felt I was carrying too heavy a load but everything was used. Still need to work on this.

There were others who were regular supporters from home, like June Evans who followed Spot Tracker everyday and her enthusiasm was inspiring. The same applies to Brian and Jan Strehler who followed my progress daily and followed up with phone calls every 2-3 days. Once when changing an inner tube outside of Swift Current, my cell phone rang and it was Brian Strehler calling to see if I was okay because I hadn't moved for quite awhile in an isolated area on the map. That is support!
Calls from my good buddy, Gary Lauwers were also most encouraging and I appreciated his insights and friendship. It was also good being in touch with my Mom who recently turned 90. Her mind is sharp but she suffers from a deteriorating back condition. We talk more from the road than when I was at home so in an odd way, this trip has contributed to our relationship. It's also been good keeping in touch with my younger sister, Jane who's support is also appreciated.

One person who's contributed over and above is Lynda Kerr, my girlfriend, who has overseen lots of logistical support issues, been an active listener and is looking after my great little cat, Latte. Cats are pretty independent but require lots of care and attention like kids. Latte loves Lynda because of the TLC she's provided and I am most appreciative. Latte will be boarded at the Cyber Cat Lodge while Lynda joins me in Europe for a month during the first part of my journey through the Netherlands and Germany.

There's lot's more to say but it's best to be brief. I intend to continue this blog in Europe until my return but am concluding the Canadian portion of the project. Thank you for your support...I learned a great deal and have been blessed by good weather, safety, health, friendship and prayers from my friends at St. James.

Bye for now. I look forward to being in touch with you during the next phase of the journey.

Doug